This website documents my progress in building a Farrier F-85SR trimaran.

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union jack

Latest update 5 apr 2020
After bolting the aft inspection hatches in place all float mounted parts are now mounted. On the main hull only the cockpit winches are left to do, but I first want to apply kiwigrip to the seats. After the third and last spraying session all parts are in color now and I started placing these parts. I'm very happy with how the cockpit access doors turned out. Also the cover for the water ballast control fits nicely.

I was going to mount back the spreaders on the mast, but had some problems with two blind rivet nuts. They came loose. I banged them back in place with a bit of 3M5200. This is very strong glue, but takes a week to cure...

The floor of the anchor locker is covered with EVA foam and I applied kiwigrip to the hatch, which I bolted in place as well. For the rear mast support I needed two brackets that fit to the traveler. I used a mould and laminated them under vacuum. It was fun to do that again. At the same time I made two covers for the float ventilation tubes that exit in the beams. I had been looking for commercial items but never found them and then forgot about it until I mounted the folding pin covers on the back of the beams, so still two parts to finish and paint.

The inside of the rudder cassette has been covered with a thin waterproof carpet covering. The trailing edge of the rudder butts against a plastic strip that is held in place with aluminium bolts. The idea is that, if I hit something with the rudder, the bolts will brake and the cassette and rudder escape unharmed ( hopefully ). The helm is bolted in place as well, so I was able to cut the push-pull tube to length, fill the ends with an epoxy mix and cut an M8 thread on a lathe. The cassette hits the hull with just under 30 degrees deflection while the helm still has a bit to go. So, if needed, I could increase rudder throw a bit. The fit with the aft mast support is tighter than expected, very tight actually, but it fits and that's what counts smile.

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14 mar 2020
measure. Fit. Fix. I'm still mounting parts and hardware. The halyard clutches are now mounted on the mast and the two winches on the cabin top. The traveler is ready and I glued the trampoline tubes in place with kit. The tubes are locked in place on the supports by bolts. It's a bit tricky to neatly drill the holes in the centre of the support, but with a bit of guidance that works out nicely. It is important not to tighten the bolts too much as the tubes will be flattened without compression tubes fitted. I also painted several items white. Some parts need a second paint session for the other side. For the first layer I had not used enough spray thinner. This only caused some problems on the rudder with a few runners. I will sand these down and give the rudder a second coat.

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28 feb 2020
I got access to a spraying booth to paint the smaller parts. I first started with the grey parts. The big extraction system is very nice to work with and I was happy with the result. Sadly, after my departure, someone opened the door to the outside and a wind gust blew over the rudder cassette. I'll have to repair the spots.

In between I made some tools for removing the tap. A circular drill and a slotted wrench. The tap was seriously stuck and the steel of the tools a bit soft. I had to redo the teeth of the drill a few times and the wrench broke up quickly. I had a few pliers that fit, but the tap broke up in pieces. I also broke up two pliers, but got the tap remains out in the end without too much damage to the aluminium backing plate. The hole is now filled with an epoxy mixture.

The bolt rope feeders are in place now and I finished drilling and tapping the holes for the trampoline bolts. Also I started placing some of the parts that I had just painted. On the top of the mast I had to remove a bit of the groove to fit the sheave. For the rudder cassette I had to sand away a bit of paint to fit. The paint layers were thicker than I had expected.

The flashlight of my 9 year old Bosch drill caused a short on the batteries. They were already starting to lose power, but are dead now. Time for a new one.

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18 feb 2020

The gusts of wind from the two storms earlier this month continually blew out my diesel heater. Working in a cold shed is not ideal, so I limited myself to a few smaller jobs. To protect the outboard mount I glued on some rubber strips. I aligned the topblocks for daggerboard control and also started drilling and tapping for the trampoline bolts.

I still had some lathe and router work to do. The pin of the goose neck has now been lengthened. The gooseneck assembly is ready and I'm happy with the result. I also made parts for the bolt rope feeders. I had them welded but still have to finish the surface.

While tapping thread for the constrictor clutches on the mast my M8 tap broke just inside the hole. I tried to drill a hole in the tap with an extra hardened drill, but no chance. It has to come out, so I'll have to find a solution. I'll probably make a custom tool myself.
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28 jan 2020
This time I was able to keep working on the boat for a few extra days. For cutting the bolts I had clamped the cutter, as this was easier to work. With all those bolts that needed shortening I improved my technique and now they are all neatly shortened without a bream. For a few parts on the roof I chose to make some glass fibre reinforced plates to fit on the under side of the deck. Then, finally I was able to start fixing all deck hardware. I try to use butyl tape for most applications. No kit edges that need cleaning. The instructions are clear and spot on. The only downside is that with larger fitting areas the local pressure is not enough to completely flatten the tape and you have to take care to thinly apply the tape. Applying heat with a heat gun does work, but again less with the larger parts. For the deck hatch I needed help from glue clamps to get to the required result. For this reason I used 3M 4200 for all plastic inspection hatches.

I'm happy with the conical nuts that I made. The anodizing process had sludged the threat of some of the nuts, which is a well known problem, so I ran the tap through again. To prevent corrosion problems with the stainless bolts I used an anti seizing paste. To lock the nuts I will have to apply a drop of kit on the edge of the nuts. On the traveler on of the nuts froze up. It is nice to have hex head bolts, as it is easy to stay in the centre when drilling the head loose.

The mast foot and parts for the mast raising system are now in place as well. I glued these on with a strong glue. The mast foot is mainly loaded in compression. The glue is for the side loads as the screws are only there to fix the mast foot in position. I also glued the end fittings of the boom in place.

As I work alone I constantly need to help myself by fixing spanners in place so I can tighten bolts and nuts. For the jib track and the water ballast bailers I needed some help. An extra set of hands makes for easy work and goes much quicker. I'm about halfway now in mounting all parts. As I also fixed the plastic guide strips for the cabin pop top I was able to check the fitting of the top. Perfect.

In between I also started splicing the side stays and made the screacher halyard. The aluminium work for the rear mast support is ready as well. On the cockpit seats I planned to use EVA foam. Experience from other users have shown that this foam is too soft and breaks down. I decided to revert to Kiwigrip. It is less durable for your cloth, but I will mostly use a comfort seat or cushions anyway.

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