website documents my progress in building a Farrier
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Latest update 5 apr
After bolting the aft inspection
hatches in place all float mounted parts are now mounted. On the main
hull only the cockpit winches are left to do, but I first want to apply
kiwigrip to the seats. After the third and last spraying session all
parts are in color now and I started placing these parts. I'm very
happy with how the cockpit access doors turned out. Also the cover for
the water ballast control fits nicely.
I was going to mount back the spreaders on the mast, but had some
problems with two blind rivet nuts. They came loose. I banged them back
in place with a bit of 3M5200. This is very strong glue, but takes a
week to cure...
The floor of the anchor locker is covered with EVA foam and I applied
kiwigrip to the hatch, which I bolted in place as well. For the rear
mast support I needed two brackets that fit to the traveler. I used a
mould and laminated them under vacuum. It was fun to do that again. At
the same time I made two covers for the float ventilation tubes that
exit in the beams. I had been looking for commercial items but never
found them and then forgot about it until I mounted the folding pin
covers on the back of the beams, so still two parts to finish and paint.
The inside of the rudder cassette has been covered with a thin
waterproof carpet covering. The trailing edge of the rudder butts
against a plastic strip that is held in place with aluminium bolts. The
idea is that, if I hit something with the rudder, the bolts will brake
and the cassette and rudder escape unharmed ( hopefully ). The helm is
bolted in place as well, so I was able to cut the push-pull tube to
length, fill the ends with an epoxy mix and cut an M8 thread on a
lathe. The cassette hits the hull with just under 30 degrees deflection
while the helm still has a bit to go. So, if needed, I could increase
rudder throw a bit. The fit with the aft mast support is tighter than
expected, very tight actually, but it fits and that's what counts .
measure. Fit. Fix.
mounting parts and hardware. The halyard clutches are now mounted on
the mast and the two winches on the cabin top. The traveler is ready
and I glued the trampoline tubes in place with kit. The tubes are
locked in place on the supports by bolts. It's a bit tricky to neatly
drill the holes in the centre of the support, but with a bit of
guidance that works out nicely. It is important not to tighten the
bolts too much as the tubes will be flattened without compression tubes
fitted. I also painted several items white. Some parts need a second
paint session for the other side. For the first layer I had not used
spray thinner. This only caused some problems on the rudder with a few
runners. I will sand these down and give the rudder a second coat.
I got access to a
spraying booth to paint the smaller parts. I first started with the
grey parts. The
big extraction system is very nice to work with and I was happy with
the result. Sadly, after my departure, someone opened the door to the
outside and a wind gust blew over the rudder cassette. I'll have to
repair the spots.
In between I made some tools for removing the tap. A circular drill and
a slotted wrench. The tap was seriously stuck and the steel of the
tools a bit soft. I had to redo the teeth of the drill a few times and
the wrench broke up quickly. I had a few pliers that fit, but the tap
broke up in pieces. I also broke up two pliers, but got the tap remains
out in the end without too much damage to the aluminium backing plate.
The hole is now filled with an epoxy mixture.
The bolt rope feeders are in place now and I finished drilling and
tapping the holes for the trampoline bolts. Also I started placing some
the parts that I had just painted. On the top of the mast I had to
remove a bit of the groove to fit the sheave. For the rudder cassette I
had to sand away a bit of paint to fit. The paint layers were thicker
than I had expected.
The flashlight of my 9 year old Bosch drill caused a short on the
batteries. They were already starting to lose power, but are dead now.
Time for a new one.
The gusts of wind
from the two
storms earlier this month continually blew out my diesel heater.
Working in a
cold shed is not ideal, so I limited myself to a few smaller jobs. To
protect the outboard mount I glued on some rubber strips. I aligned the
topblocks for daggerboard control and also started drilling and tapping
for the trampoline bolts.
I still had some lathe and router work to do. The pin of the goose neck
has now been lengthened. The gooseneck assembly is ready and I'm happy
with the result. I also made parts for the bolt rope feeders. I had
them welded but still have to finish the surface.
While tapping thread for the constrictor clutches on the mast my M8 tap
broke just inside the hole. I tried to drill a hole in the tap with an
extra hardened drill, but no chance. It has to come out, so I'll have
to find a solution. I'll probably make a custom tool myself.
This time I was able
working on the boat for a few extra days. For cutting the bolts I had
clamped the cutter, as this was easier to work. With all those bolts
needed shortening I improved my technique and now they are all neatly
shortened without a bream. For a few parts on the roof I chose to make
some glass fibre reinforced plates to fit on the under side of the
deck. Then, finally I was able to start fixing all deck hardware. I try
to use butyl tape for most applications. No kit edges that need
instructions are clear and spot on. The only downside is
that with larger fitting areas the local pressure is not enough to
completely flatten the tape and you have to take care to thinly apply
the tape. Applying heat with a heat gun does work, but again less with
the larger parts. For the deck hatch I needed help from glue clamps to
get to the required result. For this reason I used 3M 4200 for all
plastic inspection hatches.
I'm happy with the conical nuts that I made. The anodizing process had
sludged the threat of some of the nuts, which is a well known problem,
so I ran the tap through again. To prevent corrosion problems with the
stainless bolts I used an anti seizing paste. To lock
the nuts I will
have to apply a drop of kit on the edge of the nuts. On the traveler on
of the nuts froze up. It is nice to have hex head bolts, as it is easy
to stay in the centre when drilling the head loose.
The mast foot and parts for the
mast raising system are now in place as well. I glued these on with a
strong glue. The mast foot is mainly loaded in compression. The glue is
for the side loads as the screws are only there to fix the mast foot in
position. I also glued the end fittings of the boom in place.
As I work alone I constantly need to help myself by fixing spanners in
place so I can tighten bolts and nuts. For the jib track and the water
ballast bailers I needed some help. An
extra set of hands makes for easy work and goes much quicker. I'm about
halfway now in mounting all parts. As I also fixed the plastic guide
strips for the cabin pop top I was able to check the fitting of the
In between I also started splicing the side stays and made the
screacher halyard. The aluminium work for the rear mast support is
ready as well. On the cockpit seats I planned to use EVA foam.
Experience from other users have shown that this foam is too soft and
breaks down. I decided to revert to Kiwigrip. It is less durable for
your cloth, but I will mostly use a comfort seat or cushions anyway.