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Build log
2019
Latest update 17 dec 2019 After drilling through the last of the filled mounting holes, I started shortening the bolts where needed. On the side of the hull, the aft reinforcement for the mast raising installation was placed too far aft. I had used the F-32SR drawing as there were no drawings for my boat. Even though I had recalculated the measurements, I probably used a wrong dimension for this one. I placed the bolt further forward, just within the HD area below the window strut. I do have to make new slot bolts though. Often I tend to make my solutions too complicated. I was a little worried that my water ballast system would be like that, but it seems to turn out very nice. With a dyneema line via sheaves the bailers are easy to control. It would have been better to drill the bailer holes earlier, though, as I now had to put some protective paint in the countersunk holes. I had to paint some smaller parts and the spreaders anyway, so that was no trouble. I did not have enough time to apply all layers, so that job is not completed yet. The rear mast support still needs to be made out of aluminium. As my cabin and pop top are a bit higher than standard, I first checked the clearance between mast and pop top for trailering and mast raising with a mockup. This is OK. I also found out that I had forgotten to drill the drainage holes in the support tubes. It would be better if I had done that before painting. Working on I keep running into small jobs that take up much time.
 30 nov 2019 Next step was the deck hardware. I had already drilled the deck for most parts, cutting away foam around the hole and filling with epoxy again. This to avoid moisture influx in the core of the deck. Now I only had to drill through the holes, allowing me to check if I had ordered the correct bolts and screws. The position of the mast foot pin was transferred to the mast raising fork by some fixtures and a pvc tube. This allowed me to drill the holes for the brackets for the fork. I now was able to determine the exact length of the boom. I had made it a bit oversize. It is easier to cut back than to add on. I had to cut of 8 cm and drilled and tapped the holes for the hardware on the boom. Also the hull sides and the floats needed drilling for a few parts. Lastly I filled these all up with an epoxy mixture. In between I checked and sanded all smaller parts that still need to be painted. The rudder and daggerboard also need to be painted as well. As I can't remove the diamond stay from the spreaders, spray painting them is not an option. I first sanded of the old paint layer and applied an epoxyprimer.
 10 nov 2019 After sanding back the epoxy primer the mast was ready to be painted. I did this in one go with the boom, trampoline tubes, bow sprit and mast raising pole. All in mouse grey. I used a Wagner W560 maritim and this worked nicely. Only the last layer of clear coat did not flow out well, especially the mast has some variation near the trailing edge. If it turns out too offensive to my eyes I later will have to sand it back and hand roll a layer. Then it was time to tape the main hull for the Kiwigrip. It takes quite a bit of time to neatly draw around all deck hardware. Then came carefully cutting along the lines and taping of the rest of the hull. Rolling on the Kiwigrip went quickly. I did port and starboard separately, as I otherwise would not have had enough access. Again I heated the shed for quicker drying. Meanwhile I did some sanding on the last smaller parts that still need to be painted.
 19 oct 2019 Many minor jobs together do take a lot of time. Work on the mast did not seem to get finished. The cheeky tang was a good fit, so I continued with the foot of the mast. The gooseneck has a pin through the mast, so I glued in a tube here as well. Then I glued reinforcements for the gooseneck, the mast rotation limiter, halyard exits and the boltrope feeders. I strengthened the hole for the gennaker sheave. Where a hole needs to be threaded, I glued a piece of aluminium for extra 'bite' using the wet epoxy sanding method. When everything was glued in place, I did a final round of sanding and applied epoxy primer. I bought Selden feeders for the bolt rope. These are too small, so I have to make something myself. Also I found out the the gooseneck pin is too short  .
I had not sufficiently adjusted the length for the Delrin bushes and
the mast reinforcements. A bit of drilling and lathe work to do
therefor.In between I also did some other jobs. I mounted the first piece of hardware on the boat  :
The anchor rollers. Also I made the mainsail halyard. It will be 2:1
and is 36 meters long. Two thirds is with cover. Feeding the core
through was quite a job. The cockpit floor is now also covered with
Kiwigrip. Around the Webasto heater I applied BVM Heat
Shield+.
This is a ceramic paint that protects
against heat. The paint
has a course structure. I will try to sand it back a little.
 3 oct 2019 I'm mainly working on the mast now. Most parts for the leading edge have been glued in place. Where a hole in the mast is needed I drilled through the doubler. The rolling furling boom will have a handle on the front side. I applied some reinforcements there. Also the attachment point for the mast raising system is glued in place. Where the stays are mounted I first glued a compression tube in place. After sanding flush I glued the doubler in place. This way the tube is encapsulated by the doubler. The holes for the halyard sheaves have been cut as well. There is no thickening of the laminate where I have the genaker sheave, so I have to make something myself. In between I also taped the cockpit floor for the kiwigrip application.
 19 sep 2019 Getting a nice curve for the edge of the anti slip went well with the template. On other places I used a bent batten to get the correct contour. I then cut the edge freehand, careful not to cut into the paint. Kiwigrip dries quickly, while the tape needs to be removed when the paint is still wet. At 17ºC en 65% humidity I was on the edge of the application graph which gave me time to work without haste. I had unfolded the boat in the shed as there was a slight chance for rain. When the Kiwigrip was touch dry, I folded the boat, closed the shed and fired up the diesel heater to be sure not to exceed the maximum dry time. It had been my intention to replace the bow catcher of the trailer. The hard rollers of the old one had damaged the paintwork on the bow, so I need to repair that, before I can bolt the new one in place. All reinforcements for the mast have been cut to size and the parts for the leading edge have been faired, so I'm ready for the next step.
 1 sep 2019 The paintwork on the boat was not finished yet. The anchor locker and the cockpit lockers still needed some paint. After careful taping I rolled on two layers of Double Coat. This doesn't mean all painting is finished now. I still need to paint several smaller items that will be sprayed in a booth. And of course the mast, boom and bow sprit. All reinforcements for the leading edge of the mast are now ready to be cut to size and sanded. The trailing edge needs reinforcements for the goose neck and mast rotation limiter. I laminated these and also a fitting for the mast raising system. Also I started taping for the Kiwigrip anti slip paint. The floats have a double curved shape. A straight shape for the anti slip does not work. I had the idea to work with a fixed offset from the local width of the float. It looks like that will work. It is impossible to get a neat edge by making the shape free hand. After taking some measurements I started work on templates. This also ensures symmetrical shapes. To be continued.
 17 aug 2019 This is the first time that I have progress without doing much myself. I was nicely kept up to date. First the boat was sprayed with a primer, which was then partially sanded back. This was finished off with 3 layers of double coat. After curing for a week I today was able to put the boat back together. I was very happy with the result. On arrival home it became clear that the forward beams are good insect catchers, so the first task was cleaning them.
 2 aug 2019 I requested offers from three companies for paining the boat, and soon was able to make my choice. Now I had to make the boat transport ready. Demounting the folding system looked a bit daunting, so I thought it best to do that near my building shed with all my tools etc. at hand. I then could separately transport the floats on a loaned trailer. To pull the pins out of the folding struts I made some simple tools. Again I reaped benefit from my choice to bore out the pins as it is much easier to remove the pins. The hard part is getting the folding system unloaded. It is very hard to see if there is still tension in the folding system. You have to juggle a bit and a tap with a rubber hammer will help. If a folding pin is stuck rock solid, then there is too much tension on the system. For stability I lashed the main hull to the trailer. After lifting the port float with a fork lift I found out that, with the beams pointing skywards, the float is unstable in the lifting slings. A wind gust suddenly inverted the float with the result that I had some filler damage on the beam ends. Bugger! Also I found out that I couldn't find a stable position on the trailer. In the end I decided to attach the port float again. This went much easier than I anticipated. You don't need supports for the float. It is much easier using the fork lift to get the float to the right height and then support the beams. This way it is very easy to align the holes of the folding system en push the pins in place. The same applies when demounting. It is easier to adjust the system. I now dared demounting the boat in the paint shop. First I had to mount the float supports on the trailer and temporarily wrap them in carpet. Getting underway for the first time was anticlimactic. Despite the wind the boat was very stable behind the car. The boat is still very light of course. In the paint shop my daughter and I took three hours to demount the boat. After searching for a long time, I finally found lines for the sheets. I like single braid swiftcord like lines. These are supple, don't kink and have good grip. Most don't come in more than 9 mm thickness, except Robline Racing Pro. I bought 11mm line for the main sheet and 9 for the jib.
 20 july 2019 I still had to sand the epoxy primer in the cockpit. With that task finished, the boat is now ready to be painted. In between the mast could be lowered. It was quite dusty 
. After dusting and degreasing I started
sanding back the old paint layers. I do this with caution as I do not
want to sand through the carbon. For stay attachment and other fixtures
I need some reinforcements. I protected the mast with a bit of left
over vacuum bag plastic and used it as a mold.The trailer cradle is now fixed in its permanent position. The boat had its first airing and was placed on the trailer. It also allowed me to fully fold the boat for the first time. folded width is exactly the maximum 2m55. Design width is 2m50, but I made the main hull a bit wider .The floats need supports. Using 9 mm waterproof multiplex I laminated slightly curved beams and painted these. I'm not placing them yet, as the floats need to be dismounted for painting. Also I'm not happy with the bow support. I placed it a bit lower so that it actually supports the hull, but I don't like it and want to replace it with a rubber block. It means I have to change the winch support structure.
 27 june 2019 The coppercoat on the floats indeed had a smoother surface than on the main hull. However, near the keel I had applied too thin a layer, so I needed to apply a few extra layers, now with the normal epoxy. The same applied for a few spots on the main hull. While that was curing I applied the waterline. Three layers of mouse gray and one layer of UV double coat. I had made sure there were some parts to be painted with any leftovers, but I was quite accurate in my estimate for the amount of paint to be used. I also did some work on the trailer. The cradle is now fitted temporarily. I needed to make a few blocks for support, as the beams of the wheel axles are a bit lower than the rest. I used some left overs for this, mainly from my first ( too heavy ) attempt for the motor mount. These blocks have a layer of epoxy and a layer of doublecoat to protect them from moisture. Lastly I did the final sanding of the coppercoat. The later applied patches do not blend in visually, both those with the original coppercoat, as the spots with normal epoxy.
 10 june 2019 Applying coppercoat on the floats went effortless and I achieved a smoother result than on the main hull. I'll know if for sure when I start sanding
. Again I noticed that the mix ratio by volume ( 1 part resin + 1 part
hardener ) was not correct. Working on larger areas normally the one
liter units are mixed in one go. I had to work in smaller batches and
worked precisely, but again came up short in resin. Probably there is
less than half a liter in the resin container, so I only was able to
apply 4 layers. I also had some left over copper powder. This will
allow me to make some repairs when needed, using normal epoxy.Before sanding coppercoat needs a long curing time, so I first started sanding the floats. The overlap of the primer between the sides and the later applied top coat needed to be smoothed out. Using a floodlight all imperfections light up. I then started sanding the coppercoat on the main hull. I first used 120 grit sanding pads. The hard epoxy and copper eat up a lot of sanding pads. I'm about halfway now. Especially sanding the bottom is quite hard work. The end result needs to look something like this.
 23 may 2019 After the previous update I lost a lot of time to the flue, vacation and other causes. In between I was able to do some work. A number of blocks, supports and winches need underdeck support of a ply plate. I made these, impregnated them with epoxy and glued most of them in place on the floats. Below the hatches of the floats I painted the inside with white epoxy primer. In hindsight I should have done this before I glued the float halves together as it would have been easier and I the result would have been better. The interior has been painted. I made the daggerboard case mouse gray and I like the combination. It will be less intrusive visually when cushions have been fitted as well. The boat is now supported by stands and level to apply the waterline to the floats as well. I wedged the beams against the CMM's to avoid loading the upper folding strut. Later I will fit the compression pads here. They will get coppercoat below the waterline as well. I found out that the hull supports had made a few scratches in the coppercoat and the filler of the main hull. In hindsight I should have used more carpet layers in the supports. I repaired this and will apply some new coppercoat there as well. Applying the tape for the waterline is easiest on my back, lying on a small cart.
 28 feb 2019 While fitting the trampoline tube, I found out that the diameter was too small. 48mm i.s.o. 52mm. It's not a big difference and that's the reason I had not noticed it when I received the tubes. It also means 20% less stiffness. One phone call to Ceilidh was enough and they exchanged the tube for a new one even though I'd bought them two years ago. Great service! The supports that I made fit perfectly now. Initially it was still cold and I did a few jobs at home. I used the hybrid soft shackle to link the leaded anchor line to the anchor. Very strong, and easy to inspect for damage. Also I made a soft shackle for the trailer eye and cut all mooring lines to size and spliced loops onto them. I read somewhere that a 60cm high pulpit is required for racing. I wasn't sure about the shape and made a mock up from PVC. It confirmed my doubts. I didn't like the shape. So, I made a second slightly lower and smaller part. Size wise it is comparable with the production F-22 pulpit. I'm happy with this one. Bending the pulpit was a setback. With a rented pipe bender I couldn't get any movement. Maybe a wall thickness of 2 mm was a bit too much for manual bending. So, I switched to an electro-hydraulic pipe bender. This machine made and awful mess of the bend, even though I had filled the pipe with sand. This means I will have the pulpit made professionally. As the outside temperature quickly went up, I was able to paint the last areas in high build primer. Also I started painting the inside of the cabin. I do this in stages. As all parts need a minimum of three paint layers it takes quite a bit of time. I mean to paint the yet unpainted parts grey. I'm still in doubt about the CMM sides though.
 31 jan 2019 Work on the boat is still very slow, but I do make progress. The trampoline tubes have to be supported on the floats at two spots. I made molds for this. The supports are laminated from a sandwich of carbon with foam and glassfibre plate. This must be strong enough. I'm ready to apply epoxy primer on the beam float connection and paint the inside of the boat. It's too cold for that now, so I continued marking the holes for all deck equipment. I can fill them with epoxy and then make pilot holes. This saves a lot of work when the boat has been painted. Before I started filling and fairing I made pictures of all HD inserts. This made it very easy to find the right spots for drilling. I also made a plan for bending the pulpit. When that has been done, I can also drill the holes for the supports in the bow wing. Initially I protected the exterior with duct tape. When it's left on for a few days it does leave quite a bit of residue glue. I should have known that . So, I went back
to using a pencil. Now I have to take care when filling
the holes with epoxy...
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