website documents my progress in building a Farrier
work and health problems I
wasn't able to do much work on my boat since the previous update. This
month however I finally was able to do some jobs. The diagonal braces
under the trampolines will be attached to the floats with a dyneema
I glued an internal reinforcement in place. Then I started filling and
fairing. With all the edges and curves that took quite a bit of time.
As the temperature had dropped I needed to wait longer between filling
and sanding. I used this time to perform other tasks.
finally painted the trailer cradle. I used 'de IJsel' dust gray,
expecting to use if for the boat as well, but found it too grey for my
liking. I have to find a colour that is more white. Afterwards I glued
the carpet to the cradle and bolted and glued the steel tubes in place.
The cradle is now ready to be bolted to the trailer.
beams are bolted to the CMM's with bolt plates. To fix the exact
for the bolts, I glued a piece of foam in place with hot glue and
drilled a hole through the beam hole. Using this hole as a template I
drilled the holes in the CMM's for the two hold down bolts. I first
wanted to use my drill press, but found out that the Upper Folding
Strut was in the way when lifting the beam up far enough. A second set
of eyes and a triangle protractor did the job. The fit of the bolts was
good. I enlarged the holes slightly and coated the inside with epoxy to
protect against moisture. The seat of the beams on the CMM's was not
100%. Theoretically they have to fit exactly, but in practice on side
can be one or two millimeters off. To solve this, I glued a mixture of
cotton, aerosil and epoxy in between and bolted the beams in place.
There is a good even contact now.
The wingnet tubes should be aluminium, with flanges welded on the
ends and bolted to the beams. I bought some carbon tubes, which are
much stiffer. I made carbon fittings to glue them to the beams. A bit
oversize initially, as I still had to determine the exact place for the
beams. When I finished fairing, I clamped them on the beams, cut to
size and glued. At the same time I also glued the outside
reinforcements for the padeyes in place.
All holes for items mounted on the boat need to be sealed with an epoxy
mix. I drilled the first pilot holes for the tiller bearing plate. Many
more to follow.
long holiday my work did not allow much time for the boat, but slowly I
was able to complete some jobs.
With the floats folded it was a much easier than thought to reach the
aft side of the front beam and laminate the glue joint. Just crawl in
Next job was closing the temporary access
holes. First I protected the floats with two layers of plastic. Then I
made a glass flange on the bottom of the hatches. To pull the hatches
into place, I made a contraption out of the float supports. I
finished the job by laminating the outside, which was the final
lamination job on the hulls.
In between I found out
that the flex rubber of the tiller extension was quite bigger than I
thought, so I glued a carbon piece on top of the tiller.
to glue the floats to the beams, I rebuild
a few old supports. The floats are angled outboard about 9 degrees, so
they needed to be angled. I then lifted the floats, supported them into
the right position and made sure they were symmetrical port and
starboard. I did have to take care not to disturb the alignment of the
beams, as that was still possible.
To glue the beams to
the floats I had very restricted working space. Most work had to be
done by feel and by hand, as there was no space for a multitool for
sanding. Even a mirror did not help as my arms were
view. Wat worked, was making a lot of pictures with my phone in between
work. A boroscoping camera would have been better, I think.
gluing I needed to sand and prepare again before taping with glass
fibre. With most of the edges taped I was able to remove the supports
and fold the floats. This went really well. They can't be folded fully
yet, as the hull supports are in the way.
Now I still have to
tape the aft side of the front beams. I need to crawl into the floats
and that is easiest when the floats are folded in. We did a test fit
and, while very cramped, I think it will work.
After ordering my deck hardware I had to work on one pair of conical
nuts. After that, all aluminium parts were ready for anodizing and I'm
now awaiting their return.
few pictures this time.
Not that I did a lot of work, but I did have a lot of visible
progress. The nice weather continued, but before I was able to apply
to the last areas I first had to cut slots in the trampoline tubes. I
used a mold that I wedged vertically to the tubes. Worked out really
nice and quick.
I wasn't happy with the end result of the boom,
so after some additional filler and sanding I gave the boom another
coat of primer when I was coating the last parts of the main hull.
After that I had to go back to sanding again, as I had to smooth out
the high build primer.
In between I also started preparing the
folding system. The acetal bushes were too tight for the pins. While
building the beams I had encountered this problem. Some time ago I read
a bulletin of Ian Farrier, where he stated that pins had to have a
light push fit and that it was OK to sand the inside of the bushes
lightly with sandpaper.
I rebuild the supports of the main hull
and put it on wheels. This allowed me to move the hull and place it in
between the floats. To have support for the beams, I'd already bought
jack stands, which I now assembled. First I used them with my laser
level, to level the main hull. Then I easily lifted the beams on top
and fitted the upper folding strut. I leveled the beams and checked
fore and aft alignment. As I had hollowed out the pins, It was easy to
align the pins by sighting through the holes. The beams still had some
for and aft movement, So I clamped on some battens for rigidity.
I was happy with the fit of the folding system and the beams. Only
the gap between the beams and the CMM's was a bit tighter than expected
( should be 3 - 9 mm ), but it was just enough. Beforehand I had
expected to need help with alignment of the beams and lower folding
struts. By using some battens to support the struts or the bolts, I was
easily able to work alone. Only when bolting down the brackets I needed
Lastly I prepared the floats to receive the beams. There are two
extra holes next to the aft beams so I can laminate these on the
inside. Back in 2012 when building the floats, I had marked these. The
cutout for the beams were made to measure by using a template and I
sanded all areas.
suddenly we got some
nice weather. Much warmer than normal and ideal for painting the boat
with the shed door open. As I wanted to apply the coppercoat myself, I
turned the hull inverted ( for the last time, hopefully ) and first
applied primer. For the trailer cradle I had used Awlgrip 535.
the hulls I had bought Nautix HPE high build primer. This is
stuff to work with, not so thin and with a lot less solvents.
the HPE is so nice to work with, and with the nice weather holding (
hottest may month in known history ) I threw my plans around again and
started applying the high build primer to the boat. I'm almost done. A
few places had some discrepancies or pinholes. I filled these with a
bit of Nautix watertight epoxy filler. Below gunwale level I have
sanded back the primer. This takes at least as much time as the
painting itself and you have to be carefully not to sand through the
primer. I used a few pieces of worn 80 grit paper to sand any drips or
ridges, then switched to 180 grit on the torture board and the
eccentric sander. The last session was with the Rupes, using 240 grit.
The rest of the sanding work can wait until we have rainy weather
Only a few more painting days to go.
commonly accepted wisdom under
home builders is the infinity of filling and fairing. There'll always
be something that needs more attention, so at a certain point you just
have to quit. I had hoped to be able to announce this today and almost
made it. One reason is that I left the most visible and hard to fair
parts to the end. It doesn't have to be perfect, but I do want to make
an effort and not stop too soon. What's two weeks on a total of seven
When I checked the deck hatch, I was not happy. Somehow I
had sanded too much of the raised edge away. So, I added filler to the
edge, reinforced it with glass and added some more filler. It looks a
lot better now. I also was not happy with the vertical faces of the
CMMs. These things are tough to get smooth anyway and I can understand
Ian's switch to moulded parts for the F-32 and
work on the cockpit it is easier to have the boat on its side. It also
was time to sand the hatches to size and glue the carbon hinges in
place. I used 5 minute epoxy for this. It is not as strong as normal
epoxy. The idea is that, when someone steps on the door, the hinges
will just brake off, without damaging anything else.
The chainplate for the fore stay has been cut so that the ELHF furler will fit.
After serving me seven years, my 12V Sears multitool gave up. I think
the carbon brushes have worn out.
sanding and filling I applied primer to the trailer cradle. The topside
is white, the bottom gray. I added an extra layer to the bottom and
finished it off with clear epoxy UV coat. I had these on hand, and they
where somewhat old and expired, so perfect for the cradle. I was struck
by the amount of solvent in these paints and how long the fumes remain
in the shed. My shed is well isolated, but therefore also poorly
ventilated. I first wanted to put the three hulls in the high build
primer by myself, but I'm not sure about that now. It means I'll change
my work order and delay the primer a bit.
router was cutting the
frames for the trailer cradle, I glued a wooden plank on top of the
cradle for reinforcement. From cut-offs that remained I made form
pieces that will fit the frames onto the steel tubes. After these
together I lifted the contraption onto the hull and glued it onto the
cradle. To increase stiffness I glued edge strips onto the cradle as
well. After lifting the cradle off the hull I taped all glued edges for
more strength. The cradle is now ready for paint.
between I went into the main hull to do some filling and fairing in
to reach places. The rest of the interior was sanded and only needs a
touch up in a few places. Outside on the main hull I laminated the
underside of the anchor roller. After the trailer cradle was lifted off
the hull, I started sanding the edges and ridges of the exterior.
The moment of painting is getting closer. I'm not sure yet what
colour scheme I want. Below the waterline will be
coppercoat, that is no issue. Above the waterline I have two
possibilities left. I like a
dark blue hull with a white deck, like this English F-33.
The downside is that the hulls have to be very smooth, because every
irregularity is highlighted. A lighter colour is possible of course,
but does not appeal to me. I will probably end up with a white hull,
with light grey anti slip on deck, which basically is the standard
farrier colour on the F-22.
White is much more forgiving and I can always use PVC wrap foil to
give the outside of the floats a colour. A friend of mine advised me to
go for DC831 dust gray as a slightly
off-white color. I'll paint the trailer cradle in that colour to see if
I like it.
cut the chainplates on the floats to size. The gooseneck for the boom
is ready. All conical aluminium nuts have been made and shortly I will
have everything anodized.
of epoxy takes quite a
while at these low temperatures. It basically comes to a standstill
after I leave the shed, only to go further when I heat the shed again.
So, I work on several projects and turned the hull on its side so I
could fill some hard to reach
spots in the cabin. I also continued work on the deck and the cockpit.
They need to have a good shape, but don't have to be super smooth, as
99% will be finished with kiwigrip ( deck and cockpit floor ) or EVA
foam ( cockpit seats ). Except for the edges, I only filled the weave
of the glass cloth on the cockpit floor. I also did another fit-check
with the daggerboard, which was a good thing, as too much filler had
worked its way into the case at the trailing end. A bit of sanding did
The boom is ready for
primer. One part is not ready yet, the goose neck. I found out there's
a part missing which I will have to make myself. I did a few small
jobs, like gluing the anchor roller in place and finishing the
removable strut. This still needs to be faired though.
In between I also started on the trailer cradle. It will be
supported by frames for which I laminated a sheet op ply. I did not use
peelply this time, but after initial curing I filled the weave with
filler. After I applied a last fill to the cabin sides I turned the
hull upside down to be used as a mold for the cradle. I stretched two
layers of plastic over the hull as I wanted to be sure that no epoxy
wood leak onto the hull and laminated 4 layers of glass on top.
As it got really cold, I also started up some aluminium work. I
made parts for the temporary stays, which are used for raising and
lowering the mast, the mast rotation limiter and also some aluminium
conical 5mm nuts, that will sit on the underside of the deck.
finished sanding the floats
and they are ready for epoxy primer. Especially the starboard float has
a few spots that need some attention with a bit of filler afterwards.
stripes of filler have been sanded back and filled. After curing for
several days I sanded the area again. Of course there were a few areas
that needed some extra filling. That needs some time to cure now.
between sanding I also worked on the boom. First I had to measure the
distance between the mast and the traveler. The boom needs to stick out
a bit behind the traveler. When sailing close hauled the tension in the
main sheet will help mast rotation by putting the boom in compression.
Also, when releasing the traveler tension in the main sheet will reduce
a bit, making it easier to release the traveler. I cut the boom back to
the required length. The cut off is used as a mold for the goose neck.
I reinforced the ends of the boom on the inside. At the aft end I glued
in aluminium blocks so I can screw the outhaul track to the boom.
The removable strut has been sanded back to size.