Christmas and new year I spend a few hours cutting, sanding and
my CNC router cut the blanks for the rudder of Arno’s boat. I'd forgotten how much
dust MDF gives.
I made a
cutout for the motor mount in the hull. I gradually cut everything to
size until the mount was in the correct position. The hole in the hull
looks very big.
cut away the foam on the edge of several panels, so I can fill them
with putty. I the hull I sanded all recent glue edges and checked the
height of the slide in table. It is a bit lower now.
Luckily the weather was a
bit warmer when I returned home. Initially I continued cutting parts
from offcuts. The settee seat backs need some support at the ends as
well. I could not cut all resulting parts that way so I needed to start
laminating again and had to prepare the laminating table again.
For the slide in cabin
table I had several options. One option was to cover the table with
teak veneer, but I decided not to. I still had some 15mm corecell of
the correct size, so I laminated it with 400 gr glass on both sides.
Under vacuum of course.
I still needed to make a
cover for the front bunk access hatch and used a mold for this. Later I
found that I had taken the wrong mold, so it had to be done again....
I then went on laminating
more parts that still had to be made. The plans show the wash boards to
made of perspex, but I did not like that. I used 7 mm thick 100 kg
Corecell with 300 gr carbon on both sides. Light and stiff. The two
boards still need to be cut to size. The last big laminating project
was laminating the settee back supports. I still have to make a few
small parts, but all the bigger parts have been made. The only really
big part that is left is the cradle for the hull on the
glueing the settees in place I filled the weave with filler as it is
easier to do beforehand. I will not fully fair the cabin as it is not
only a lot of work but also heavy.
In between I
laminated the hand rails near the cabin entrance. The tubes are cutoffs
of the trampoline tubes. I also strenghtened the rear of the cupboards.
This is neccessary as the wash basin and the cooker will now be
suspended from the cupboards.
I walked around in the Westmarine store, where my eye fell upon a 3
gallon/12 liter gasoline tank. Hmmm, this one could possibly fit.
Luckily I have the CAD files of the boat on my laptop. I borrowed a
tape measure and checked the dimensions when I got back in my hotel
room. According to the drawing it should just fit. I'm happy to report
that it does so in reality as well. That is one task less to do .
Coming home, I found out that the weather had turned cold. Freezing
temperatures every night. To work with epoxy I need to spend several
hours in the shed to heat it up and keep it warm to give the resin time
to cure. I only had one day where I could do this, but it was enough
for a few glueing jobs and also for reinforcing the cutout for the
For the rest I spent most of the time, measuring,
cutting and sanding. I cut the cabin settees to size. With foam in
different thicknesses I simulated cushens. I intentionally made the
settees a bit too big, so I could cut them down in size until I was
satisfied with the fit. For the backrest I used a sheet of OSB. You can
draw something in CAD; you don't know how it turns out until you try it
out for real. I think I found the right size now. The height of the
mini table probably needs some fine tuning, but it won't differ much. I
used a ply offcut to determine the size of the sliding table. I'm happy
with the result.
Before finishing the anchor locker I have to glue the bow wing in
place. Also here a lot of cutting and sanding until it fits nice and
square. I did cut away quite a bit of foam and glass from the underside
of the deck, so this will need some strengthening before gluing the
wing in place. The deck hatch needs to be glued onto a flat surface. I
cut a piece of particle board to size to glue some foam pieces onto the
The mast foot of my mast is different from the F-85SR drawings.
Also, I will use constrictor clutches on the mast for the halyards. So,
I had to redesign it all. For the mast raising fork I designed a
variation on Ian's F-9 design that he send me on my request. Excellent
support, again. Last week Suplacon laser cut and welded my
and the raising fork. Looks great. The stump of the fork will be
extended with a rescued piece of a carbon windsurf mast.
Last week I finally picked up my trailer. Originally it was a power
boat trailer, and it now has been modified to fit my trimaran.
week I only spent a few
hours on boat building. However, I did spend two days at the METS
helped out in the Colligo stand. Fun to do and
informative. I picked up
a good idea to attach the stays to the mast. I was not happy with the
original plan. Now I am :-)
The outboard will be mounted starboard at the stern, There are many
ways to place the engine mount and almost every F-boat has a different
solution. I want the outboard as far forward as possible and really
like the solution of F-82R 'Swish'. I don't want to
make the mount very
wide, but also want to turn the engine around freely. To check this out
I would need an engine, so I decided to buy one. A Yamaha FT9.9LMHX.
First I made a wooden stand and used several pieces of wood to check my
plan. I needed a few changes and the mount needs to be 2 cm
than first planned. After I determind size and shape I started cutting
the pieces out of offcuts. For the mount itself I had glued ply CMM
offcuts together but this came out way too heavy. I still had some HD
foam, so now it will be build up with HD foam and thin ply sides. A
difference of almost one kg.
The tank that came with the engine
does not fit through the openings under the cockpit seats. I looked
around during the METS, but did not find something satisfactory. I'll
make a glassfibre tank using the lost foam method.
was able to keep a good
pace over a longer time, although this time it sometimes felt like a
steeple chase. As the temperture had dropped quite a bit the epoxy
takes longer to cure so I had to wait longer before sanding or other
work. Thus, I divided my work over different jobs. The main job was
laminating the trampoline tubes in place. The slow curing also had an
advantage. I had carefully aligned the tubes for the front trampoline,
but the next morning I found I had made a mistake gluing the starboard
tube in place. It was easy to cut the tube loose and re-glue it in
place. Find the difference in the first two pics .
The tubes are laminated to the hull with a few glass layers. The load
on the tubes wants to peel the
glass from the hull. So the main load is interlaminar shear of the
epoxy, so it is important to do this under vacuum. . To prevent epoxy
from clogging the tubes I had inserted a
slightly longer PVC tube, covered with packing tape, into the tubes. Of
course some epoxy would enter in between, but the idea was that the
flexible PVC would make it easy to break free. At the rear this worked
as advertized. At the front the tubes were stuck. I took me two hours
to get them out. I then decided to laminate the ends of the forward
tubes by hand and run the tackytape over the ends. This worked OK, but
now I had leakage along the tube when trying to apply vacuum. I blocked
these off as good as I could and ended up with just above 0.5 bar
suction with both pumps running. Enough for a nice laminate.
The long tubes in the middle were easier to do. These had room to stick
out, so I didn't worry about any epoxy getting into the ends. Getting a
good vacuum did require some time as the bags were very long and I
worked on both sides simultiously. These are the tubes that I had butt
joined with some glass tape a few weeks ago. And it is there where some
had entered the tubes over a length of about 6 cm. I found out when I
couldn't get the PVC tube to slide in completely when checking. I hope
it's not too much epoxy and that it is on the bottom of the tube. I
can't see it and I won't find out until I've cut holes for rigging the
I was happy with my fairing of the port aft part
on the hull. That allowed me to glue the sheave block in its place.
Next was the flag staff, which will also hold the rear navigation
light. Then I glued a triangular extention for the cockpit seat in
place. I had not planned to do so, but the aft part of the hull still
was a bit too flexible. The cockpit seats do not extend as far aft as
on Ian Farriers drawings. I brought them forward because of the water
ballast control and motor mount. This solution brought enough stiffnes,
so I'm happy.
The other small projects that I picked up:
- For the tiller I
made a bearing plate. The underside of the tiller and the top of this
plate will be covered with teflon strips. This will make smooth
- I faired the rudder cassette. Especially the
side with the control horn was difficult to get right. There are still
a few rought spots, but I will work on those with final finishing
filler after applying primer.
- Forward at the bow I started work on the anchor locker lid.
Earlier this year I experimented with an alternative to steps into the
cabin, which I like very much. As the plank will almost be 1m20 long,
it needs to be very stiff. To prevent the core from buckling I glued
off cuts from bulkheads in vertical strips and then used my router to
get a smooth finish. It is allready very stiff with al those small
vertical glass strips.
- At the foot of the mast I want
rotation limiter. It needs to fit in a carbon tube that goes into the
mast, so I covered the aluminium bar with packing tape, rolled a layer
of glass around it, cut it through to release it from the bar and
sealed the cut with filler. It now fitted nicely and moved freely. I
sealed the ends of the glass with ductape and rolled the tube with
carbonfibre. The result: completely stuck. I tried everything, put it
in the freezer, in the oven. Not even the hint of movement. So, I have
to try a different solution .....
- I also made preperations for building the backsupports for the
settees in the cabin. The top is formed by a PVC tube.
regular job does not
interrupt work on the boat, progress is good and I kept momentum after
the previous update. The aft CMMs still needed reinforcement. It is a
slightly bigger job than up front, as the cockpit seats also need extra
strength between the CMM and the traveler. The compression forces of
the beams need to be led to the traveler. The holes for the upper
folding strut were a bit difficult to reach and close off, but it
worked out well.
With the CMMs finally finished I started
work on several jobs at the same time. I glued the mast foot block in
place and reinforced it under vacuum. The rudder mount also needed
strengthening. When that was ready I cut the hull aft edge back to its
final shape. To prevent damage I also decored the foam with a router,
finger sander and dremel. I used a mixture of epoxy with aerosil,
cotton flakes and micro balloons for filling. A hard and strong
combination. Now I finally was able to glue the rudder control horn in
place and laminate it under vacuum. Port aft I cut a hand hold into the
foam. After decoring I filled it with above mentioned mixture, but also
some UD glass. I don't want to end up still having to fair all parts at
the end of the build, so I also started fairing the rudder cassette and
some spots on the boat.
The bow tube was waiting to be glued in place since last march. As
everything had been measured and marked, it was a quick job. Several
reinforcements needed laminating and it was difficult to reach the
narrow bow. After closing of the gap on the top I laminated the final
layers under vacuum. After curing I was a bit nervous about the thin
glass layer protecting the G10 tube for three years now. It had done
its job. The inside was clean. No epoxy had entered :-)
The mounting tube for the trampolines can be either PVC or glass.
The PVC tubes are a bit weak and wobbly. Long ago I had already ordered
glass tubes. For the mid part they are too short, so I needed to join
two tubes. Regular PVC tubes are an exact fit into the tubes, which
makes it easy to align. To glue the tubes to the hull, I need to force
them to follow the hull lines with straps and the rear tubes are now
place. That would have been an easier with PVC tubes...
In between all of this I also bought a nice second hand aluminium
my build progress is very
erratic. I work 80% in my job and until a few month ago I had an 18 day
9-on/9-off schedule. That has changed. I now work 9-on/6-off, but have
every fifth rotation off. So, in between rotations I have less time to
build, but some extra time at the end. At this moment I've got a boat
building holiday, so I make good progress as well.
work on the daggerboard case is not ready yet. It still needed glassing
to the hull. I did that on the cabin floor and the deck. The
reinforcements underneath the deck will have to wait until the boat is
inverted again and the same applies for the hull bottom.
The forward CMM is now also laminated on the outside. It is a
tricky job, with a lot of corners. I can't imagine how someone can do
it without vacuum. No matter how thorough you work, there will always
be a few spots where the laminate will lift. With vacuum you need to
use a large bag, so there is no bridging in the corners where epoxy
will fill up the void in the bag.
For the anchor roller I had already made a mold. I now laminated the
bracket in one go, including the foam core. I still have to machine the
aluminum shafts for the rollers. For the mast foot I used an oak block.
I routered it to size, giving the mast foot the right angle.
summer the build pause was a
bit longer than usual. It was nice to pick up some energy, sail on my
cat and go on holiday with my family. I was itching to go building
again, but don't have much to show yet. The daggerboard case is ready
to be laminated to the deck. The same applies to the CMM outside parts.
Also, I made a cover for the water ballast control lines.
laminating work around
the forward beam bulkhead ready, it was time to fit the daggerboard
case. In the build book this step is done much earlier, when the
hulls halves are joined. From other builders I heard that the case was
blocking access when placing the forward CMM in the forward beam
bulkhead and making it hard to laminate
the reinforcements. So, instead I rebated the foam in the outside of
the hull where the
case had to be placed. With the daggerboard case fitted now, I can
see that it can be quite in the way and I'm glad I delayed its placing.
I did not have to take any measurements it could just cut the hull at
the rebates and fit the case. First I glued the daggerboard case
bulkhead in place, followed by the case itself. The control lines for
the daggerboard are running slightly different from the plan. Some time
ago I made an angled insert that will take two stand up blocks. This
has several advantages; The up line will pull the board up to a higher
position, it is easier to pull up the board completely or take it out
and the blocks will barely protrude above the deck.
The case bulkhead needed a number of glass tapes for strengthening.
The forces of the daggerboard on the case will be led forward and
was quite tight, but it worked out nicely.
In between I also
continued work on the tiller. To glue on the control arm I placed both
parts exactly perpendicular. Then I laminated some extra carbon on
under vacuum. The tiller is now finished. The next small job on the
side is the cover for the water ballast control lines.
On a few days humidity was too high again for epoxy work. I used the
time to sand back the bog on the tiller. I also worked on an
for the steps into the cabin. This one occupies less space, but its
length asks for a stronger, and heavier, layup. I also stated on a mold
for the anchor
few small jobs remain to
be done on the cockpit and I am ready to laminate the outside of the
CMM area. First the work on the forward CMM had to be finished. I had
finished all preparations, so I started laminating straight away. Again
I laminated all reinforcements in one go, without using vacuum as it is
too difficult to reach. After curing I cut out the middle part of the
CMM. This creates a lot of space, although after fitting the
daggerboard case I will lose much of that space.
The inside of
the passage needs some finishing with several layers of glass tape. In
a way a sort of ring frame is created. The frames that I used to close
the CMM cove were made quite some time ago. This allows me to continue
progress on the hull now.
The warm humid weather of the last weeks makes my air dryer work
overtime. I need to keep the relative humidity under 80%. As
shed is insulated it is relatively cool. Disadvantage is that the
moisture levels tend to creep up. Even though it is warm enough I cheat
a little by heating the shed with an electric heater. This also lowers
the relative humidity.
With all the remaining bits of epoxy I
have now faired the tiller. It is ready to mate with the control tab. I
added almost 100 grams with the filler.
Another F-85SR hit the water recently. Through
the years I exchanged a lot of ideas with the builder. His boat looks
fantastic. Congratulations Phill.
cutting carbon cloth for
laminating the traveler bridge top, I found out that I had forgotten to
laminate an extra layer on the underside. Time to get the
mirror back to work. It's a difficult spot to reach, but in
end it was
easier than I thought.
In between I laminated the tiller. I used
three layers of carbon sleeve. The highest load on the tiller
not from steering loads, but happens when someone accidentally sits on
the tiller. That is why I laminated some UD carbon near the pivot
point, in between the layers. After laminating I wrapped the tiller in
peelply and packing tape. Weight after laminating was 1100 grams. A bit
heavier than I had hoped. Maybe the third carbon sleeve was a bit
overkill. On the plus side: Now I don't have to worry about a broken
tiller. Every bit of left over epoxy is now used for bogging the
After laminating the top of the traveler bridge I laminated all outer
edges of the cockpit seats.
some measuring and sanding,
I glued the cockpit seat fronts in place. After some more sanding I
taped the rear edges with glass tape. A tricky job, as you have to work
blind, by touch. I cheated a bit by smuggling a mirror out of our
bathroom. I was really proud of myself, as I returned it free of
epoxy . And
then time ran
been more than a month
since I posted my last update. During simulator training I did not have
any time to work on the boat. After completion I made my first flights.
After all the studying it was great to fly again.
Earlier this week I finally got to mixing epoxy again. First I
finished a few smaller jobs. The foam parts for the tiller are glued
together and it is now ready for laminating. I also filled a few edges
with bog. The choice for interior plan B does mean some extra work.
lamination work under the cockpit seats is ready. I glued in two extra
panels which close off the storage space that has access from the
cabin. I also glued in some thru hulls. Most of these pipes are for
electrical wiring. At the rear the stick out above the cockpit floor.
Important when a wave enters the cockpit. This is not needed in the
closed off part.
The cockpit seat fronts still need some trimming. Then I can glue them
in place as well. The cockpit looks a lot better now .
out where to place the
webasto, I made a carton model. My first choice was a bit cramped, but
I eventually found a good spot under the cockpit floor where it is not
in the way. I did doubt whether to use the drawers anyway,
build in cooker, the Origo A200, but decided it would all weigh too
much. As I can not use the Wallas it is time to start being weight
conscious again. To end the
discussion with myself I cut out the wash basin.
F-boat sailor suggested I place the anchor on the hammerhead on the bow
and supplied some pictures. I still have to work it out, but it looks
like a good idea.
There still is not enough time for epoxy work, so I keep on doing
other things. I continued work on the pop top by drilling the holes for
the arms. The fit is good.
The tiller fits well and looks good I
think, although it needs to be a bit higher to handle nicely. I had
made an extra part to use as a guide for cutting the foam.
an hour here or there does not give a lot of progress. Working with
epoxy is not possible as the shed has to warm up, which takes at least
two hours. Work on the boat consists of a bit of sanding and cutting at
Under the cockpit seats I sanded the laminate and made some
preparations for the last jobs. I also went to work on the kitchen
drawers. I forced myself to step back and have a thorough review. I
want an open and spacious cabin with preferably only one fuel type for
heating and cooking. After some more testing of the drawers I found the
exhaust needed better fixation. The system still worked, but I kept
I like the KISS principle. Still, I often
make my solutions too complicated. It happened here as well. Time for
some decisions. I did try out the Wallas in a fixed spot,
but it takes too much space. So, contrary to what I thought two weeks
ago, it is better to step back to plan B. It is better to stop half way
than to persevere in something which might be an error.
prescribes a large radius on the bow. I did not do that as I thought a
straight bow would be easier for marking out the bow sprit, which I did
some time ago. That worked
quite well. You cut away such a big part, that a radius does not make
sense anyway. Now I only had to cut along the lines with my multitool.
To have good access to the pin of the forward stay, I made
an angled filler piece. Looks good, I think.
Now the time came to try out the anchor mock-ups. All four fit,
although the Rocna had to sit on its side and is hard to get out. With
the bowsprit ( temporary ) in place it got more difficult. The Vulcan
can be taken out with the bowsprit retracted, which is nice.
anchor locker is quite narrow
as the main hull has a pointy bow. Not every anchor will fit and the
bow pole has to pass through the anchor locker as well. Choosing the
right anchor is difficult anyway. There are so many choices and
everyone has a different opinion as there is not one anchor that is
superior in all sea bottom types. As a trimaran has a lot of windage,
you need a good anchor that will set quickly. An anchor is not only
used for leisure. It's also your emergency brake if the outboard
decides to quit just when you are on a lee shore. In the ijselmeer the
bottom is mainly soft mud, which I need to take
into account, as all anchors have less holding power there. The holding
area of the flukes becomes important there.
It is generally
recommended for multihulls to go one size up compared to a monohull of
the same length. At the same time you want to minimize the weight so
far upfront. Several people are happy anchoring with a smaller anchor,
but I'll stick to the advice and aim to use an anchor of 8-10kg with a
fluke area of around 800 cm².
In the last ten years different
international sailing publications have tested various anchors. The
conclusions are comparable, with a few anchors that stand out and I
narrowed the choice down to 4 of which I would like to know if they
will fit into the anchor locker. That is why I made a few mock-ups of
carton and wood.
- The Rocna. This is a roll bar type anchor with a very good
reputation and rates very high in the tests. The only disadvantage of
roll bar anchors seems to be that the roll bar does not work properly
in soft mud. 10 kg and 795cm²
- The Spade A80. This is a concave anchor with a ballasted point that
does well in all tests. The steel version is 15kg, but the aluminum
version is a lot lighter. There are reports that the shank is not very
strong. Very expensive. 7 kg and 800cm²
- The Vulcan. This is a new anchor developed by Rocna. Has not been
tested yet by the magazines. Reports on social media are positive. It
is a concave anchor like the spade. 9kg and 730cm²
- The Plastimo Kobra 1.
This is a collapsible plow anchor, so it takes up less space. Holding
power according to the tests is less than the Rocna and the Spade, but
the difference gets less in a softer bottom. Every advantage has its
downside: The need to fold out the anchor takes time. You can't just
throw it overboard. 10kg and +/- 800cm²
Of course there are several more possibilities, like the Manson
Supreme ( comparable to the Rocna ) or the Manson Boss. The Boss is a
new, light anchor with a large fluke area. The Ultra is a stainless
steel anchor which did very well in the Fortress Chesapeake Bay soft mud
but is very expensive. The Fortress anchor has very good holding power
and is light, but does not fit into the locker. Also I've heard some
accounts of the anchor flying
when the boat is being blown backwards.
the previous update I started with my conversion training from the MD11
to the 747. I'm pretty much occupied with studying but I try to escape
from behind the computer based training an hour every day and spend
some time in the shed. No time for big jobs, but there are plenty of
things that I can do in an hour.
Before I glue the kitchen drawers under the cockpit seats I want to be
sure that my plan ( using the flexible exhaust for the wallas ) works.
This uncertainty was a weak point in my design. Of course there is a
plan B, but .... That is why I took some left over wood parts
and made a construction to try out the design.
Last month I made glass fibre blocks from the glass sheets that I had
left over from the closing the CMM gaps. I glued these on the back of
the side plates and tapped M4 thread in these. Now I don't have to work
with nuts in a place that is hard to reach. I had to play a bit with
the length of the exhaust, but sliding in and out is smooth now and
hardly needs any force. The
slides have a friction latch that keep the drawer in. Fully
extended it wants to pull in about an inch, so I need something to hold
drawer out, which I planned to do anyway. Test successful, plan B is
lamination work on the inside
of the aft CMM is ready. Initially I wanted to do this under vacuum. It
is a very tight workspace though with hardly enough room to attach the
vacuum bag. Before laminating the CMM on the outside, I first have to
close the cockpit seat fronts. Before I can do that I have to finish
all jobs below the cockpit seats. The first item started was a support
web for the flagstaff that I will glue in place later. I also glued the
traveler bridge in place.
On the forward CMM I continued with some sanding and I also
laminated reinforcements in place on the upper cove.
In between the editors of the dutch online magazine Zilt came to visit
and wrote a very nice piece in Zilt
the bottom gaps was
quickly done. Thereafter followed a process of filling, sanding and
finishing, which took more time than I thought it would. With the low
outside temperature it takes two days before I can sand the epoxy. If
you start sanding too quickly the epoxy heats up and starts to gel as
the curing process is not finished yet. The CMM's are highly loaded and
sharp edges and turns are not allowed for the laminate that has to tame
these forces. On the forward CMM I also had to fill the area above the
gunwale. Here the forces are led to the roof. Now the big holes in the
hull are closed again.
Between the filling and sanding I also did some smaller jobs. Before I
can close up the cockpit seats all jobs beneath have to be completed.
The kitchen cabinets are drawers that fit underneath the cockpit seats.
On the port side the Wallas cooker and heater will be placed. It's a
tight fit, but everything goes where I had planned without problems.
The connection between the exhaust
and the Wallas is a flexible stainless hose. It's a bit stiffer
had hoped, but will allow me to go ahead as planned. To protect the
surrounding panels against heat the exhaust hose will have a glass
reinforced silicone sleeve. Around the exhaust and a
few other places I will apply some heat resistant Ceramic paint.
With the tiller mounted on the rudder you are forced to sit behind
the traveler, or transfer the tiller extension behind the main sheet
each time to change tack. That is why I will make a remote tiller which
will run underneath the traveler bridge. I had my router cut a
prototype for the tiller in wood. When the traveler is fitted I can
check the dimensions before I make the carbon version.
cutting the holes for the
forward CMM I slid this one in place as well. To align the CMM's I made
wooden frames with bolts for fine adjustment. To fixate horizontally I
hot glued blocks of foam to the peel ply on the hull. After initial
rough alignment I made carton templates for closing the gaps between
the CMM's and the hull. I pulled the CMM's out again and glued on 2mm
thick glass ( 5 x 400 gm ) plates which I had cut to size.
was freezing outside the temperature in the shed drops quickly when I
leave and it takes a long time for the epoxy to cure enough, so I also
did some other jobs in between. I glued the water ballast vent pipes
in place. These also serve as guides for the control lines. Also I
glued the hatch opening side pieces in place. I made these some time
After the epoxy had cured I replaced the CMMs. With my
laser level and laser distance meter leveling and aligning was easy. I
checked the forward CMM to be perpendicular to the hull by measuring
to the bow. The fit to the beam bulkhead was perfect. After a few hours
of work everything was aligned within a few mm. A final check, just to
be sure, and I was able to glue the CMMs to the hull. The glass pieces
close all gaps nicely. Only on the underside there still is a gap. I
also made fill pieces for this, but time ran out before I could glue
them in place.
the front bunk there are
two compartments. The front compartment is watertight. The aft
compartment can be used for storage of light items, so I painted it.
Access was easy with the hull still on its side. In between I also
started preparations for gluing the bunk floor into the hull. I had
split the bunk floor into three parts, but found out that the aft two
parts could fit through the cabin entry together with millimeters to
spare. That was nice as it allowed me to glue them together and build
the hatch support on the laminating table. Doing this inside the boat
is a lot more hassle.
To get into the cabin from the cockpit I
need a small ladder. I first made some temporary steps. This way I can
check if the planned height and size of the steps is to my satisfaction
or if it needs to change.
When I made the Central Mounting
Modules ( Oct '13), I found out I had made them a bit too small. I then
solved this by adding ply on the outside. For the rear CMM no problem,
but looking at the laminating schedule on the forward CMM I felt a bit
uneasy, so I replaced the ply there by carbon reinforced putty.
turning the boat upright again, laminating the bunk floor in place was
a piece of cake as I had made ridges in the hull to support the bunk.
front hatch in the main hull is optional, but you need to make a hole
there anyway as there is no other way to access the front side of the
forward CMM. I already bought a D-shaped Gebo hatch so I cut the hole
just inside the required cutout. The use of laser distance meter and
laser level is ideal for preparing the CMM cutouts and makes leveling
the hull easy work. The vertical cuts are made along the projected
laser line. Still, I stood back a few seconds before putting the
multitool to work. The aft CMM is temporary in its place now and when I
was ready to start cutting for the forward CMM time ran out.
rearranged the history of my blog. As I passed the 5 year mark I
thought it better to split the history in yearly parts. Each page is a
bit larger now though. Just before the end of 2015 the first home build
F85SR made its first splash. Congratulations Clive!