This website documents my progress in building a Farrier
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the beamtops more than a year ago. To glue these on the beams I first
had to borrow some clamps here and there. I used a mix of cotton
fibres, aerosil and microballoons to make a glue. To keep the
glue on top of the frames I used painterstape. All 4 beams are closed
The first panels for the main hull have now been laminated under
vacuum. Some of the panels need more preparation work. I want to do as
much as possible now to reduce the amount of fairing later. On the
edges where the foam core is exposed, it has to be routered away and
filled with putty, like with the bow tube floor. Then it has to be
faired. I prefer to do that now.
As a testpiece I had thought to use the mini table, which will be fixed
on the daggerboard case and be a base for the cruising table. My router
failed however. It is now repaired under warranty. To cut the foam, I
used my drill. The table was then filled with putty and
laminated. Cutting the table will have to wait until the router is
weather gets colder, I
couldn't get the shed heated anymore. Time to reshuffle the interior. I
moved the floats, to make space for the main hull. My old 'tent' had
collapsed this spring, so I allready bought a new and bigger party tent
last summer. With an extra plastic layer I easily get a nice
For the CMM's I only had one more lamination
to go, so they are ready now. The LFS brackets on the fourth beam are
in place and work on the inside of the beams is now
completed as well. As I had ground away quite a bit of aluminium on
some of the backing plates, I filled the voids with JBweld. I don't
want to get into trouble with the screws that hold the trampoline in
place. The pin tops that I made earlier were a good fit, and the PVC
tube slid over easily.
The bow tube needs a little floor that is
angled. As I wanted to laminate it in one go, I made a mold so I could
laminate the floor under vacuum. The bow tube is now ready as well.
work on bulkheads and panels for the main hull has also started now. As
the drilling of all those holes takes so much time, I had made a nail
board. Three taps with a hammer gives me 120 holes. Getting the board
out again takes some fiddling, but it still is less hassle.
beam pads are now glued onto the CMM's. Work on the CMM's and the bow
tube consists of several small jobs. In between you have to wait until
the epoxy has cured. Almost finished now.
gluing the LFS brackets it is important to have the beam area
and level, otherwise stresses will be introduced when folding. Before
the holes are drilled, the LFS is checked to be parallel with the beam
in both directions. I routered two molds for this some time ago. This
is a critical part of the building process.
In the building book
Ian writes: 'May need some grinding at beam
bolt/nut areas to allow clearance for nuts'. Well, I had to grind away
quite a bit. It's a nasty job in a tight corner taking a surprising
amount of time. Everything has to fit well before fitting the brackets,
as the brackets are glued down as well. Releasing the bolts to change
the fit is not an option.
pins for the LFS have a very tight fitting. When I have to fit them
later, I will have to think of a construction to place them. For now I
cheated by using a shaft with a 0.2mm smaller diameter. Still a tight
fit though, I have to remove the pin with a hammer. One beam to go.
week I did a lot of small jobs. Even though small, together they take a
lot of time. I made the beampads for the CMM's about 2 years ago, when
I still worked with the F82R building book. While recaltulating the
size for the F85SR beams ( which are smaller ) I made a mistake,
causing the pads to be 5mm too small. As the pads are only loaded at
the inside I thought to add some 5mm ply to the outside. To be sure I
mailed Ian Farrier with this idea. Within 9 hours I had my answer: That
is fine. Great support by Ian, even though he is very busy starting up
production of his F-22.
Before I can glue the beampads on the CMM's, I first want to finish the
inside of the cove for the upper foldings struts. This is a part where
potentially rainwater can collect, although the design alows for
drainage. Once the beampads are on it is very difficult to reach.
The chainplate for the forestay has to be positioned at the correct
angle on the bow tube. I made a little mold to keep it in place while
glueing. The rest of the work on the bow tube is a lot of small steps.
They don't take much time, but I have to wait for the epoxy to cure
The aluminum parts for the Lower Folding Struts are bolted together.
The holes need to be alligned exactly. No allowance for twist, so I
also made a mold for this. The bolts are SS. To make sure they stay
fixed and to avoid galvanic corrosion, I smeared the bolts with loctite
271 and used an activator as the loctite does not cure very well with
anodized aluminum and SS.
Internal work on the beams is almost ready. Only the tubes for the UFS
pins have to be installed, but I want to delay that until I've
installed the LFS beam brackets as the pin is easier to reach that way.
Many trimarans have problems with leaking float hatches. This probably
is caused by the floats pumping air when slicing through waves. Good
ventilation, while maintaining water tightness, is important, and I
hope to achieve that this way.
The bowsprit and parts are ready for sanding and painting. I will do
that later, so they have been packed and put aside.
is over, as I had to go
to work again. After the previous update I continued building
boat, but it started with a setback. I tried again to make a
foil control sleeve for the curved foils. After curing I only needed a
light tap to free the sleeve. Perfect. But I can only move it by about
10 cm. After that it is completely stuck. Possibly the thickness of the
UHMW is not constant.
The bow wing is finished and wrapped in old
peelply, ready for later use. It is my intention to make as many parts
as possible, before starting on the main hull.
For the bow sprit I needed a few more parts. I already made the
anchor for the screecher. Both sides of the sprit needed a plug. On the
front side I made a bracket of foam and carbon for the navigation
The sprit will slide through a tube into the hull. I
wrapped a few layers of mylar sheet around a plastic tube, and secured
that with tape. The carbon sleeve was made with several layers of
carbon sleeve. After the epoxy had cured, I cut the ends off and the
tube came off effortless. It fits well, with the prescribed 3mm play.
Cutting into the bow sprit took a bit of courage. Carefully
measuring to get everything lined up, measuring again, and then cutting
into the tube with my multitool. I purposely cut the hole a bit small.
Next week I will file the holes out to get a good fit. The sprit still
needs a coating and it is very tempting to use a clear coat. I read a
lot about problems with UV, so it's probably going to be white finish.
A real shame to hide the beautiful carbon though.
After laminating the underside of beam #4 all beams were at
the same construction stage. I marked them well, as there will be
specific differences between port, starboard, front and back. I still
have to complete some internal work before I can mount the folding
mechanism. The aluminum parts for the mechanism have just returned from
anodizing and look very good.
In the mean time I also worked on the CMM's. For gluing the full glass
plates, I made a mold, as shown by Martin.
In the end I did not like it, so I lined everything up with a 19mm rod,
a square and a level. After that I could glue the end pieces in the CMM
mold. One CMM is now taped.
Last week I also received some
pictures from another F-8SR builder. Clive started at about the same
time as me, but is much further advanced in his build than me. His boat
is almost ready. From this angle the boat looks really good!
moment I've got a
workperiod off which allows me to continue work on my boat. It's great
to have a few weeks without jetlag and night flights. And sleep in my
own bed every night.
While underway I completed the planning for
the electrical system. I want a flexible and simple system, with a
LiFePo4 battery for lightness. The conduits will be laminated
the boat so there will not be any visible wiring. All lighting will be
LED. Part of that will be on its own batteries.
parts for the folding mechanism are ready to be anodized. Beam #3 has
been laminated on the underside. Beam #4 is out of its mold. The bow
wing is ready. I'm now fairing the outside parts. The first parts for
the CMM's have been glued together now.
Today the bow sprit arrived. Very long. It almost ads a quarter to the
boat length. I couldn't have made it so shiny and light myself.
of work, vacation and
work it took a long time before I could start on the boat again. I did
get to sail in Miami though, on 'Ricochet. That F-27 is kept in mast up
storage. A really neat way to keep the boat. Thanks Stefan!
Central Mounting Modules I had to laminate one more panel. I then
routered and cut the parts. All parts for the CMM's are now ready.
the bow wing I had thought to use a unidirectional carbon sleeve. It
was quite a heavy cloth and difficult to wet out and get smooth and
tight around the foil shape. Wrapping tightly in peelply did not solve
this either. It did not turn out well and I easily
pulled it off after curing. I then used glass uni as per
specifications, rolled it around the wing and pulled a double
bias sleeve on top to squeeze the laminate tight. I'll see the result
At home I installed a new bathroom
vanity. This freed up a sink to use as mold for the boat sink, using
glass offcuts. Most commercially available sinks have a flat bottom. If
the boat is at an angle, they will not drain and the stainless steel
models are quite heavy. This way I can make my own carbon sink. I now have to find a low profile drain to
find out how deep I can make the sink.
I'm not building everything myself. In a few days I hope to receive
This one is made in a mold, with al re´nforcements required by Ian
allready there. I will not be able to make it that way. Also I had a
protective bag made for my rudder. On the inside is neoprene. The
outside is dacron, cut from the old genoa of my brother's boat.
before time ran out, I started on a new foil control
collar. While wetting out the carbon I had another look at the knitted
cloth that I use. The stitching gets loose and makes a rough surface.
To prevent new problems, I will switch to a woven cloth, as I have that
too. Using an offcut of foam I made a little panel so I did not waste
the foil control
collar goes in two stages. Everything seemed under control. When the
laminate had cured, it was easy to slide it on the plastic sleeve. But
I couldn't get it off. In the end I had to cut it in two. I had wrapped
the carbon around the sleeve, probably too tight. As most fibers are
under 45║ this strangles the sleeve. Adjustment of the curved
foils is with bolts. I will pour some fibre reinforced epoxy around the
nuts. I made a mold for that with my router.
Normally I work on
my boat during daylight hours. This time it seemed handier to laminate
the inside of beam #4 during the evening. I started a little later than
planned. At the end I had 3 foam leakages to work on, which took quite
some time, but I reached 0.5 bar/15 in Hg. As temperatures were still
below normal I had heated the shed, but the epoxy was still hard to
work with and I used more than normal. To speed up curing at last I
build a tent around the mold and used an electric heater. Time flies by
when you're having fun...
My wife wasn't amused when I came creeping into the bedroom at half
past two in the morning.
My hat off to all people that build boats in weekends and
hours. It took a bunch of flowers to make her happy again.
the epoxy had worked well though. Despite the low pressure, the
laminate looked good. There was a lot of epoxy in the bleeder cloth and
it took quite some effort to get it out of the beam.
finally the weather improved, so I could sail my catamaran for the
first time this year. It also allowed me to test postcuring on the
daggerboard case. Although it was partly clouded with a temperature of
about 20║C/70║F I did get almost 37║C/100║F in the plastic
40+/105+ When it became really cloudy, the temperature immediately
dropped, but it gives me confidence for if and when we get warm weather.
for laminating under vacuum take about twice as much time as for hand
laminating. Especially drilling all the bleeder holes when laminating
two sides. It is worth the effort though. This week i laminated a 6mm
ply sheet. I was a bit concerned about laminating a 2m44 panel on my
2m50 table. It worked out really well though. I shielded the tacky tape
against epoxy with ducktape.
enroute for my job I can
still do a lot for my boat building project. In preparation for the
build of the main hull, I now have all frames, panels, bulkheads and
floors ready in CAD. Everything stacked for minimum use of materials.
Next step is writing the programs for my router.
The weather in
the Netherlands finaly has improved and allowed me to help launching
F-82R 'max'. It is great to look around and see several good
ideas. Thanks Ernst!
The daggerboard case is ready. I haven't
done much on the beams. Beam #4 is ready for internal lamination and
beam #3 for external lamination. In the mean time I also started on the
foil control collar for the curved boards. I ordered these from Ian
Farrier and they will come my way in a few month. I also cut foam for
the bow wing. It is not part of the F-85SR design, but is part of the
F-82R drawings. I think it will improve safety when sailing solo and
working on the bow.
The aluminium parts for the folding
mechanism are almost ready. The last job was accurately drilling the
bolt holes in the lower folding strut spacers and tapping M8 tread. 32
x 30 mm = almost a meter of thread. There is a lot of work in the
folding mechanisme. Next up is checking the fit, wet sanding and
cleaning before the bits are send in for anodizing. The parts don't
look as shiny as Marks, but I am satisfied with
Once every half year it is time to clear out all the rubbish that I
produce. Quite a lot.
may, the temperature was
still very low for the time of the year, and I still had to work in my
makeshift tent. There was one advantage though: I had to pour an epoxy
mix into the daggerboard case and with the low temperatures there is
less chance for an exothermic reaction. As I used a slow hardener, I
dared to do this in one go.
But first I had to glue the daggerboard cases together. Other
had some problems, so I worked carefully. Basicaly both ends have to be
clamped, while spacers give the case its correct size. In the middle
the case sides parted, so I opted clamp the whole case and tack glue
the sides together before laminating the reinforcements.
clamped the case sides to the laminating table, I was sure everything
stayed straight. Disadvantage was that a small glue ridge developed on
the inside of the seam, but this was easily sanded away afterwards.
After laminating the front and aft sides, I could pour the keel insert.
Ian asks for a thin fibre reinforced putty. I mixed what I thought was
a thin mix and in the mixing cup it easily settled. After pouring it
into the tube a rocky bottom was the result. More sanding was required
after cutting out the daggerboard foil shape.
In the mean time I
had finished sanding the daggerboard into shape. It now is ready for
epoxyprimer and fits into the case neatly. Parts of the case which do
not need taping later are faired now, to save work later. I only filled
the weave and laminate edges. Because of the different laminate
thicknesses, it doesn't make sense to make a smooth board. That takes
too much filler = weight.
In the mean time work on the beams also continued. The third beam
now has all webs installed and is out of the mold. The fourth and last
beam is now taking shape in the mold. Further down the build of the
beams, I need the aluminium folding parts and these first have to be
anodized. So, it was time to continue work on the folding mechanism.
Most parts have been waterjet cut, but I needed to make the hull
brackets myself out of aluminium angles. Luckily there is a good router
at my wife's school. I also routered a hole jig for the lower strut
the rest of the family
enjoying a school holiday during my days off, I couldn't work on the
boat very much, except for some filling and sanding of the dagger
board. Recently the F-85SR that was build by Multihulls Direct made its
maiden voyage. Pictures can be seen on sailing anarchy, but I also placed
them on my F-85SR page.
which I had been planning for sometime already, was building in a
magnetic switch for automatic homing of my router. Works great with a
repeatability which is better than 0.1 mm.
Sometimes you find something which you should have used much earlier.
In the Home Depot in Miami I ran into this great little paint mixer.
Easy to clean and also usable for smaller amounts of epoxy.
This past week I worked on 3 projects. The daggerboard case halves both
got a few coats of coppercoat. I want to prevent weed or other growth
sticking inside the case as this will make lifting the board more
difficult. To improve on friction, I used slightly less copper than
advertised, and added some graphite. That is why the coat looks a bit
dark. After that I tapped and glued in the bolts that act as studs for
At home, I'm fairing the daggerboard. That can easily be
done with a few hours here and there. And at last I picked up
work on the beams again. Last year I had problems laminating the aft
beams. This time the lamination was not the problem, but the vacuum.
though I took carefully preparations, some epoxy had managed to creep
under the tacky tape. I then laminated the second beam without vacuum
as well. I'm not sure yet how to proceed with the front beams. I can
copy the trick that Arno used, who enveloped the beam
in a very big bag. Probably should have done that on the aft beams as
well. The first front beam has been laminated on the inside, and is
now curing under 0.83 bar/25".
still much too cold for the
time of the year, so I'm still working in my makeshift tent to keep the
temperature under control. Both halves of the daggerboard case have now
been laminated, trimmed to shape and are ready for the next step. I
first build the right half. The left half has a tunnel for the control
lines and it is easier to build up that part of the mold, than break it
down without damage.
While laminating the left half I had some
trouble getting a good vacuum. I found out I had some small holes in
the vacuum foil. Duct tape is excellent stuff to seal these.
the daggerboard I used quite a hard filler mixture ( including aerosil
) to fill the weave of the carbon cloth and a few low spots. The shape
is quite good, and I will use variopox finishing filler for the last
part. I also used it for the rudder, and it works perfectly.
several reasons I had trouble
keeping the build going at a nice pace for the last few weeks. One
reason is the weather. It still is very cold, freezing outside and 5║C
in the shed. This means that every time I need to work with epoxy, I
have to heat my makeshift tent and plan all steps in advance,
combining laminations if possible.
The leading edge of the
rudder needed a bit more work than I anticipated. This could be done at
home. I finished the rudder with variopox finishing filler, which is
very easy to work with and gave a nice finish. The rudder is now ready
to be painted, but needs to be used as a mold for the rudder case first.
Laminating the core for the daggerboard went very well. The carbon
sleeve is easily stretched taut around the foam core and than wrapped
in peelply. I fixated the core on my laminating table. I glued the
daggerboard parts together under vacuum. The leading edge has the same
reinforcement as the rudder, Kevlar tape and carbon tape
to prevent splicing.
Work has also now started on daggerboard case mold.
off partly lined up with a school holiday, so I was able to spend
some time with my family. There was one downside: I didn't do much on
boat. The port side of the daggerboard has now been laminated. The
starboard side is waiting in its foam bed and the core can now be made
the rudder, I now turned my
attention to the daggerboard. This one will be build in the positive
method, in two halves. To make sure the laminate sticks to the core on
both the leading and trailing edge, the core is positioned on a 5 mm
thick mold. Lamination is in 2 steps. The first step includes
UD carbon. The drawings show how much the rebate needs to be. As I use
vacuum bagging, I reduced this a bit and that worked out very well. I
only needed a thin layer of filler to get back to the profile. Like
with the rudder, both halves will be quite flexible until joined
together. When gluing the daggerboard halves together I want one side
in a bed, to take out any deformation. The idea was to use polyurethane
expanding foam between two plastic layers to create a bed. It worked
well, but I hadn't given any thought to the amount of moisture in the
air with the low temperature and humidity. I'll have to do it again.
also worked on some other, smaller, projects. The daggerboard is very
long and needs to be lifted up if you want to dry out or trailer. I
couldn't find any suitable hand holds, so I made my own, with a little
mold, from some carbon offcuts.
The rudder mount is build up
from several layers. Its tempting to apply these in one go. Problem is
that the layers need to be pulled tight in different directions. If you
try to do this in one go, it will be a mess, so I build up all layers
step by step. One step to go. From some offcuts I also build a part for
HD core looked really
good. It was only twice as heavy as the original, 570 grams, so that
was not too bad. The rudder halves each were still quite flexible, so I
glued them together in one of the molds. The
stiffness increased enormously. Rudder weight turned out to be 2800
grams, but that was before I reinforced the leading edge with
some kevlar tape and carbon cloth. The rudder only needs minimal
finishing before it can be painted.
In the mean time I had my
router cut the foam for the dagger board in steps of 1 mm. An hour of
sanding gave a nice contour. Sanding the rebate for the UD took a
bit more time. Most of it had already been cut by the router, but at
the bottom I still had to work by hand.
For the rudder mount I'm
going to deviate from the standard design. I want to use the remote
tiller option and the reinforcement tubes will be in the way. After
consultation with Ian, I decided to make the mount full carbon, but
with the glass cloth weights.
Christmas I was at work and on New Years eve I was enjoying a family
the French Alps. Great skiing there! In between I found a bit of time
to do a few things. I cut rudder plugs for Henny's
boat and laminated the HD core for my rudder.
The HD core has to be wrapped in carbon cloth, but I decided to use a
carbon sleeve. This worked very well. Soller composites also had shrink
tubing, to shrink around the sleeve and get a nice surface. This tubing
needed way too much heat to shrink though, locally setting off the
epoxy and causing the core to warp. I had hung the core from the
ceiling with about 10kg load, but this did not help. So, next time I'll
just wrap it in peelply.
destructive testing I followed plan B and made a HD core from CF
reinforced putty. This will be heavier, but also stronger. While I had
to make a mold in MDF, I also made parts for the rudder mount
as it is easier to combine such jobs.