website documents my progress in building a Farrier
2011 All glue
joins on the inside have
now been taped. With the float suspended inverted from the
taping the deck was a piece of cake. Access was really good.
In the mean time I've also started preparations for building the
beams. Most parts for the folding system were cut with a waterjet
cutter. I still have to finish them though and I will have to make hull
brackets myself. The design for the upper strut is derived from the
F-82R struts ( and approved by Ian Farrier ) as the F-85SR design can't
be waterjet cut.
Because of large amounts of spam I had to close my email address. It
has now been replaced with a guestbook.
I wish everybody a merry Christmas; For
unto us a child is born,
unto us a son is given: and the government
shall be upon his shoulder
.... Isaia 9:6
hard to believe that a year ago I stood in an almost empty shed. So
much has happened and I learned a lot.
The last couple of days I was able to do quite a few things, there
is not much to show for however. I have about 1/3 of the list behind me
of things to do before the outside can be glassed. The starboard
bulkheads have now been taped. In a few places I had to do this by feel
as those spots could not easily be reached and this cost a bit of
sweat. But it turned out all right. The tackles are ideal and allow me
to easily handle the floats alone.
anyone still wants to know why
I'm building a trimaran and not a 'normal' boat, it's the ease and
comfort with which the boat sails at high speeds. -> please
the subtle wave ( 1:05)
After gluing the hulls together I have now entered the next stage.
Before I can glass the outside of the hulls a great number of
smaller jobs have to be completed. It started this week with cutting
holes to gain access to the inside of the hull to tape the glue joints.
On the starboard hull I used a bit too much glue when joining. A chisel
on a broomstick works wonders to
remove the glue ridges.
To reach all those hard to reach places its handy anyway to make
several tools to work with 'remote control'. With only a few holes
access is limited. The last few days I taped the keel and that went
November 2011 After I
laminated the foilcase in
place, I glued together the last 2 floathalves to create the port
float. Of course this also meant first fitting the venting system. That
all went smoothly. The mould has been taken apart which gives me a bit
more room again. Also I installed 2 tackles so that it will be easier
to move and rotate the floats. It might look as if the floats are
almost ready now, but looks deceive. There still is a lot of work to
do, most of it inside the cramped floats.....
The form frames are still good enough to be used for another F-85SR and
are for sale.
the previous update I had a holiday, so the build continued. Of course
it started with a setback.The foam box that I used for heating the
corecell failed immediately, again. This meant I first had to make a
corecell toaster. The set up was a rough copy from fellow F-85SR
builder Phill Brander
. I used a radiator fan from a car dump for ventilation.
The achievable temperature was a bit of a disappointment, about 70 - 80
ºC, while 100ºC is ideal. This is probably caused by the high airflow.
I did not fancy more delay, so I used the setup and it proved
succesfull. With the help of my heatgun bending the foam went very well
and this float half is the best of all 4. I should have done this
Laminating under vacuum was
as uneventful as last time with a pressure of 0.88 bar/ 26"HG this time.
With the hull I also laminated the carbon chainplates ( 2nd try ). This
time not under vacuum, but clamped between to plates. A few
taps with a rubber hammer helped pulling the carbon tight.
When I mounted the first foil case the hull could be taken out of the
mold, as it the bulkheads gave it stiffness. This time this was not
possible. However frame 6 and a few battens would still be in the way.
Not to be unpleasantly surprised I had planned ahead and made a work
order which required this float half to be made last last. It all went
according to plan and the case can now be glued into position.
2011 After (
again ) delay I was able
to start work on the boat again. When a float half is lifted out of the
mould the shape alters slightly. To align both halves properly I
screwed a few battens along the contour of the float. With light
pressure the float half is positioned and then glued together and
pulled tight with straps. Quite simple actually. When glued together
the stiffness is greatly increased. All screw holes have now been
and HD inserts placed, so I can continue now with float half #4.
2011 It was
my intention to glue float
halves #2 en #3 together this week.
However, a few other things interfered which didn't leave enough time
to accomplish this. On the photo you can see the venting system for the
watertight compartments. To avoid having to glue the hose into the
bulkhead I glued a plastic fitting in place. This is a lot easier to do
before the hulls are glued together.
2011 A short
update. Today I laminated
float half #3. Suspense was in the air when I activated the vacuum
pumps. After a first check of leakages I immediately had a good result.
In the end I got a vacuum of more than 0,8 bar, with one pump operating
and the other on hot standby via the pressure switch. Perseverance pays
off! No pictures as my wife had the camera with her.
july 2011 This
week I made the float
supports for when the float halves are glued together ( of better, my
router made them, I only assembled them
) . Float half and stringer #3 are ready for glass and epoxy. This will
have to wait a while, as the next 6 weeks will be spend on work and a
2011 It's a
strange sensation to pick
up a float half by the daggerboard case on your own and walk the 8
meter long hull across the shed. Although only the inside has been
laminated the hull is light yet strong and stiff.
Many people ask me when the boat will be ready. Well, I don't
know. Theoretically it should take about 2000 hours to build.
However, as I am a first time builder, some things will take more time.
It was my planning to spend about 400 hours per year on this project.
The first half of this year I was able to work for 200 hours, so I am
on schedule in that respect.
Last week I turned the float frames and started to build float half
#3. To make it easier to bend the foam I improved the insulation of the
heat box. This increased the temperature to 70 - 80ºC. Higher was not
possible as the foam of the box started to deform..... The ideal
temperature for Corecell M seems to be about 100ºC. Now I
needed the heatgun in some tight corners. The foam held its shape a lot
better though, which is a good thing as my new screws do not hold as
good as the old ones. They only go into the foam by about 7 mm. Not
having to grind any screws down and bogging them is a great improvement
As this page got a bit large, I moved the history of the first 7
month into 'Part 1'. In my links page I added a few links to other
farrier builders that started early this year.
the other two
bulkheads presented no problems. Next up was the foil case.
required some careful alignment. The curved foils were originally
developed for the F-32SR, but are also usable for the F-85SR. It can
clearly be seen that the case is sticking out of the somewhat smaller
float of the 85SR. As a smaller project I made the composite chain
plates. I vacuum bagged these, which was not one of my smartest moves .
There should not be any wrinkles, so I
have to do it again, this time by hand layup only.
week I was able to laminate
the float half. Everything had been prepared and cut to size.
Laminating took about 2½ hours, applying the peelply, bleeder
and bleeder cloth took about 1½ hour. I only was able to take one
picture which was when I was placing the bleedercloth. After this, the
hunt for leakages started. The good news was that I could only find 2
leakages in the seams and 1 at a screw, which were easily plugged. The
bad news was that the vacuum got to only 0.3 bar. I searched
several hours but could not detect any other leakages, not even with my
ultrasonic detector. Main suspect is the type of screw that I use,
which comes to just under the surface. If there are a lot of very small
leakages at those screws they add up, although I would expect to be
able to find these with my ultrasonic detector. To be sure, I have
ordered different screws to be used for the next float half.
next day I pulled off all the peelply to check for delaminations. Sure
enough there were a few in the tight corner of the deck, so these had
to be repaired. At the end of the week I just had time left to tape one
bulkhead into its place.
2011 This month started
with a 2 week holiday for the kids, so priorities
changed somewhat. However we did manage to bring the nacra to its new
place and sail there. Also the kids helped placing foam for float half
no.2. This a very good activity to do together as I don't want
them to be there when I work with epoxy. To prevent leakage I filled
the seams in 2 stages. The first layer was a bit fluid and I worked it
into the seam with a small popsicle stick. Next week I will see if
extra steps will produce less leakages and better vacuum.
2011 Last week I was able
to pick up the hatches for the floats. I
wanted GRP hatches, but most were either too big or too small. After a
long search I found these. The white colour is also
very close to the tempress deck plates.
Recently I decided to also put cleats on the floats. This meant I
had to place high density foam. This went well, but it is easier to
bring it on beforehand. After some sanding, filling of all holes and
seams the first half is now ready. One down, three to go!
I adapted part of the building method. No more glue ( didn't help
anyway ) and bigger seams. Also I use my epoxy heater box as an oven
before forming the foam.
For placing the HD foam I use a simple
mould with my dremel. Using two router bits ( 1,5 en 8 mm ) I
a well fitting rebated insert.
week I placed the remaining 2 bulkheads, with reinforcements. Removing
screws took only one and a half hour :-)
Move the mouse over the picture and you'll see the result; the mould is
ready for the next float half.
week started with a lot of
sanding. The front side of the float still had quite a bit of epoxy on
it. I couldn't get it all away, the main target was to get the surface
fair. When this was ready I decided to also laminate the stringer and
other reinforcements. I picked up this idea on the blog of Martin, builder of an F-82. He has
a lot of very good tips on his website.
Then came the time to apply the vacuum. Despite having bought an
extra pump again I couldn't get a good vacuum. After a few hours of
searching I saw there was a tear in the vacuum foil ....
the vacuum build up, although there were still a few leakages through
the seams. As my manometer had broken down, I couldn't measure the
pressure, but after playing with the pressure switch I decided that the
pressure had to be about 0,6 Bar. Not yet perfect, but more
sufficient and the laminate came out beautifully.
it was time to cut away the foam flange that was used to hold the tacky
tape. Next up is placing the bulkheads. The float has 3 bulkheads. I
first placed the rearmost and smallest. Most important is getting it in
the correct position and vertical. It's a great advantage that the
bulkheads can be aligned with their associated formframes.
2011 Last weekend
I was able to
tear the failed laminate from the hull, without any damage to the foam.
Because of the low temperature the epoxy had not fully cured yet. This
means that I can give the front side another try :-)
First I had to deal with the aft part of the float.
My question of last week brought up some helpful advise from Phill,
builder of F-85SR #1 and Henny, builder of F-39
It's now absolutely clear that tacky tape and wet epoxy don't mix. The
hull edge has to be kept dry. There are 2 ways to solve this. First way
is by applying a protective tape on the foam edge until the vacuum foil
can be attached. The other way is by placing tacky tape both on the
hull and the foil before glassing. I used the last method on the aft
part. This went very well. The only problem that remained was a few
leakages through the foam seams. This means that next time I have to
put even more care in bogging these closed. To optimize the build I had
reduced the seams to the minimum. It seems better however to keep them
a bit open and use more bog to seal them.
In the end I was able to get 0.2 bar of suction. Far from perfect
but better than nothing, and it did press the laminate into the hull
the last few days I had
both success and failure. I started making a panel for the bulkheads.
temperature was still low I had to use my epoxy heat box. Temperature
and humidity in the shed were controlled by a gas heater and an air
dryer. For vacuum bagging I do not use full vacuum, but a pressure of
about 0.7 bar. This produces a nice laminate with a hardly a chance of
dry spots. After curing my router cut the bulkheads. As I was not able
to find a router bit that can cut through the whole panel, I
to finish it of with my multi tool. It came out quite good.
job was the float. I wanted to laminate in 2 parts so I would have
ample time to apply the epoxy. A few screws were just pinching through
the foam, so I ground these of with my dremel. All holes and edges were
closed of with 'bog', a mixture of epoxy and lightweight filler. After
final sanding and a last minute touchup with 5 min epoxy (where
needed), I could start. I prepared the vacuum bag with the
tackytape and everything went well until I tried to tack the bag to the
foam. On several places the tape wouldn't attach to the foam. Aaaaargh
.... Probably this was caused by a bit of epoxy on the foam. After
trying for 2 hours I had to give up. No vacuum. The result is a heavier
and weaker laminate that I carefully have to check and probably have to
repair in a few spots. Pity.
Coming up next week is the aft part. I will have to follow a
different route in applying the tacky tape. If anyone has some good
idea's in this area, you're welcome to let me know...
Strip planking of the first float half is now ready. As I progressed I
got more feel for the process and quickened my pace. On the edges I
left some extra foam so that the vacuumbag can be attached there.
Finally I upgraded my vacuum system. I first had 2 refrigerator pumps,
but for such a big project they do not have enough capacity. I also
finished the heat box for the epoxy. Everything is now ready for me to
start playing with glass and epoxy next week :-)
During my days off I also had a few things to do at home, so I
couldn't spend very much time on boat building. Despite this another
milestone has passed: The build now has really started. The positive
mould is a great help in getting the tight radius on the top side in
the foam. Forming in the mould is quite simple thereafter. To get a
match between the strips I shiplapped the foam with my router. The
first strip was routered symmetrical. Every new strip will then be
locked into place between the previous strip and the mould. Even though
not deemed necessary by many, I glued the strips together with PU
I build on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. This time my days off gave
me 2 of these
'building midweeks' and thus allowed me to make good
progress. The photo's below show what I have done:
- The mobile glassfiber cart is finished.
- As the Farrier trimarans are build using the vertical stripplanking
I made a male mould for pre-bending the Corecell-M strips. Final
forming is done in the female mould. I think this two step process will
be easier, but it will have to prove itself.
- I had to drill 3000 holes in the battens. Through these the foam
strips can be fixed with screws to the female mould. I used battens
with a length of 4m80 to minimize scarfing.
- And while I was working the router was cutting the form frames.
- Setting up the frames required a few extra hands :-)
- The form frames are now set up, in line and level with the first
battens screwed in place.
Preparations are almost finished. The only thing left is building a
heatbox for the epoxy.
the form frames as they are now, I will build the left side of both
floats. When they are finished the frames have to be turned to build
the other sides. But that will take a while...
A great video of vertical foam stripping of a hull is in the link
Next update will be about feb 23rd.
20 jan 2011 In the
last weeks I added more lights, made a laminating table and finished
the CNC router. It works!
After a few test pieces to adjust squareness and dimensional
accuracy the first parts have been made. Not for the boat, but for a
mobile glassfiber cart. While the router was doing its noisy work, I
made the wooden strongback on which the boat will be build. I hope to
finish preparations this month, after which the real work can begin.
I expect to update this website on average every 18 days, so the next
update will be around Feb. 5.
2010 First priority is
building up my workshed. Today I finished the
mechanical assembly of my new router.